Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Made a stop at Atom-Jet to drop off the two bolts to get threads cut. Both the rear swingarm pivot axle and front m10 bolt needed to have threads cut to suit. Should be ready on Thursday; I really hope this is the last trip there for this project...
Also stumbled across a really cool paintjob, suitable for any Italian bike -- this is a MotoGuzzi, but with some imagination you get the idea of how it would look on any bike. Apparently this was inspired by Vitt. Guareschi -- a Ducati racer, and now a Thunderbike rider (I think).
I started to rebuild the bike this evening, after cleaning up the engine with some "gunk" spray product -- looks better! As well, the carb was completely taken apart and cleaned with carb cleaner. I got new bolts and hardware for reassembly -- allen bolts from Canadian Tire, rather than the stripped out phillips head screws. No manual handy for reassembly, but I think an exploded parts diagram from Bikebandit.com might be enough for me to figure it out. I'll leave the jetting stock for now, but I anticipate it being pretty lean with the aircleaner and exhaust I've got in the works.
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Speaking of, while I have the harness on hand, the starter solonoid is the only part that I have with the machine -- will need an EFI, a regulator/rectifier, and the handlebar switches. As well as a manual or wiring diagram to sort everything out. These are stupid expensive new, so its time to troll ebay again -- I got an EFI from Canada for $25.00, and have a line on a regulator from the UK -- if the owner will ship it my way. However, the next immediate step is to give the engine a good cleaning, and start to re-assemble. This requires another unfortunate trip to Atom-Jet, to get the rear swingarm/engine mount bolt cut to the proper length (thread-wise), and the front M10 as well. At least I have a nice grade 8 bolt for the front.
I have the carburetor sitting behind me, in pieces. Previous owner used a PK sheet metal screw instead one of the float bowl bolts. Ahole! Not sure how I'll sort that. That sort of stuff drives me mental. Might be able to re-tap things. And ALL the phillips-head screws for the carb are stripped. Mini vice-grips to the rescue.
Kate and I watched "Cars" again on DVD this weekend. A great movie -- I love how it apes a Nascar telecast, or any film like "Days of Thunder". Led me to wonder how this scheme might look on the bike...
Sunday, January 18, 2009
When I go to Cycleboyz to drop off the Ducati header, I'll bring along this picture to show them options for an oil tank. I think that the area just ahead of the case, and under the rad, to the right of the pipe (as you are sitting on the bike) provides plenty of room for a 3L oil tank. There are 2 good mounts readily available to use to hang the cooler. Even without bodywork, I think it will look "clean" in that location. As well, the oil lines will be considerably shorter than what Suzuki used on either the dirt bike or the quad -- should make for a more efficient cooling system.
Sunday, January 11, 2009
Sunday, January 4, 2009
Back to the tank -- I spent some time figuring how I'd like to mount it, and came up with the design you see at left. The front is a typical centre tab with a bolt through it (a shouldered washer/sleeve with a m6 allen through it). The rear two tabs are likewise, set into 5/8 tubing that has a nut welded into it. The pics likely explain it better than I can with words. I've left each end of the 3/4" cross tube quite long, to allow for the possibility of the aluminum subframe in the Tyga kit bolting to it.
I'll trim the cross piece to whatever length is needed, regardless if I can use it as a pick-up point for the subframe. It was a good reminder for me to measure 15 times before, during, and after tack-welding. And to look at it from as many different perspectives as possible. To improve the ambient light, I usually work (regardless of temperature) with the front garage door open. I'm sure the few brave souls who were out walking yesterday wondered why I was poised on a ladder, looking down at a funny pile of steel, with one eye closed. When all was said and done, a slight tap with the rubber mallet (while the welded areas were still cherry red), and everything lines up square.
I think I am now officially at the "50% done, 90% left to go" stage. Huddled over some home-made Tim Horton's I came up with the following 2 lists:
TO DO (in no particular order)
- Install appropriate K&N filter prior to installing rear subframe (57mm boot)
- Fit rear subframe
- Front fairing mounts
- Side fairing mounts
- Finish exhaust header
- Install suitable muffler
- Finish-Weld Frame (after damaged cases arrive from Thumpertalk)
- Fit Radiator tabs and hoses
- Install appropriate Kickstand (need to call Dave in the UK for some direction here)
- Finish tank -- fill oem petcock hole and install outlet hose
- Get the manual and check all the wiring I have/establish what I need
- Find appropriate switchgear for handlebars
- Fit Dash -- OEM or aftermarket
- Fabricate gearshift mechanism
- Fit rear brake m/c and lever
- Oil tank -- needs to be designed, fabricated, and installed
TO BUY: the following parts are still required to finish
- Front NSR250 fairing mount (UK only)
- Muffler (aftermarket slip-on)
- K&N filter
- Radiator hoses
- Fuel Cap
- Rear Brake M/C
- Shift Lever
- Brake Lever
- DRZ400 steel shifter (to fabricate one that will work with street switchgear)
- Oil tank
- Oil lines and clamps (oil tank will be in different location than OEM)
- Dash -- OEM or aftermarket
- Front RS125 fender (likely UK only)
- Fuel Tank liner (Kreem or POR-15 after it's been tested)
Right.... still a ways to go then. The time off recently has been wonderful. A ton of progress has been made. New parts are still in transit, so aside from the K&N filter, I have time to wait on some things... Back to work tomorrow! As in, my real job, not the expensive hobby you see here.